Devil’s Drink: Craft Soda Rises in Craft Beer Country

Devil's Foot brings craft soda to Appalachia

In a region known for its craft beer, Asheville, North Carolina-based soda maker Devil’s Foot Beverage Company has built a farm-to-can business model that is dedicated to a inch-wide, mile deep growth strategy.

The craft soda company is going through a growth spurt, upsizing its production capacity and moving beyond its North Carolina home and across the Southeast. Yet, Devil’s Foot has stayed true to its roots, supporting regional farmers through whole fruit buying and providing fresh zest and spent fruit to local brewery partners in Asheville, also known as “Beer City.”

After spending 15 years in conservation work, president and co-founder Ben Colvin formed the idea for the company while he was out celebrating his wife’s pregnancy at a local brewery in 2017. Once there, they realized there were no quality alcohol-free options besides water. Colvin and his wife realized there was an opportunity to offer an entire customer base a low-sugar, non-alc option at taprooms and bars that was intentionally made and connected to the community.

“If you’re a craft brewery, you make a really great craft beer, and you’re putting effort into it. Why are you handing out this throwaway non-alc product?” Colvin said. “It doesn’t match with the product that you’re making.”

The “from-the-ground-up” strategy is rooted in Asheville’s breweries, bars, restaurants and cafes, Colvin said, and it’s led to a network of over 250 on-premise accounts in Western NorthCarolina alone. The brand has begun branching out into a distribution network across the Carolinas, Georgia, Alabama and Tennessee. After a test run in six North Carolina Fresh Market locations last year, it will now be launching in more than 25 stores this May.

Initially, the company worked with a grocery distributor, but Colvin along with co-founder and VP of operations Jacob Baumann felt their product was better suited for beer distributors who might value Devil’s Foot’s craft roots.

“You’ve got big corporate brands that are owning all the shelves,” he said. “You’ll end up getting to a store and find out your products are on the bottom [shelf] in the middle of the aisle just collecting dust.”

To keep up with its steady growth, Devil’s Foot upgraded its production facility last summer, increasing from the 2,500-square-foot space it had used since 2018 into a 15,000 sq. ft. facility. With the extra room, it was able to scale production from 12,000 cans per week to, currently, over 20,000 cans, with room to grow to 35,000 cans eventually. Along with two to three times faster canning, the new soda production line allows for six times more tank space to store liquid waiting to be canned.

The brand has been self-funded from its inception and through the help of non-profit community development financial institution Mountain BizWorks were able to attain a SBA 7a loan to help pay for the upfront costs of the new canning equipment.

Founded in ginger beer, Devil's Foot makes a variety of fruit-forward sodas

Devil’s Foot’s makes 12 varieties of ginger beer and soda, all with 18 grams or less of sugar. The brand’s 12 oz. cans feature different label designs reflecting the various flavors. The company also makes kegs of its products for select on-premise accounts.

Not only has capacity increased but – craft beer-like – Devil’s Foot was able to add a taproom called The Mule and utilize the 30,000 sq. ft. of outdoor space for events.

“People can be here, they can see the canner in motion back behind the bar. They can see where all the magic happens. They can also taste things off the tap,” Colvin said about the new space. “It’s been a blast. This new spot is really a blessing.”

The company’s connection to its community is part of its DNA. From sourcing local honey as a sweetener for the various drinks to buying native blueberries, strawberries and peaches to make new flavors, the company, Colvin said, is dedicated to sustainability and “doing good through business.”

Supporting local farmers is just part of doing good. Devil’s Foot has been able to expand its Full Fruit Life Program with the purchase of an industrial zester that can produce 10 lbs. of fresh citrus rind that can be resold to local food and beverage companies. The program also upcycles juiced berries and spent fruit from its waste stream by reselling vacuum-sealed, frozen byproducts for use in beer, tea, ice cream and spice blends.

The craft soda maker currently counts seven participating partners in the program: Asheville Tea Company, Archetype Brewing, Burial Beer, Eda Rhyne Distillery, DSSOLVR, Green Man Brewery, and Well-Seasoned Table, with room to grow as production continues to expand.

For Colvin, Devil’s Foot and the full-fruit program is about building ties in the community and creating an all-inclusive, “intentionally approachable” brand that can be enjoyed across demographics.

“What’s your customer base?” Colvin jokes. “It’s male. Female. Four to 94 years old.”